Since I retired in 2020 and started traveling the world, I’ve had a goal to only visit places that are 70F and sunny. My mood is instantly improved in sunny weather and a temperature that’s not too hot and not too cold makes exploration infinitely more comfortable.
So why did I live in The Netherlands for a month in the winter of 2024 π ? I was in Amsterdam from early November to early December and I’m very glad I decided to break my rule and explore this beautiful city during those months. Let’s jump into why.
Weather
I won’t leave you in suspense π . The main reason I was glad I visited Amsterdam in November was because the weather was actually pretty wonderful.
Like a lot of the world, Amsterdam was warmer than normal during those months. Here’s what winter temperatures looked like in November:
It was in the 50s basically the entire time we were there, which isn’t tanning weather, but it’s not winter weather to me either. My collapsible puffer jacket over a long-sleeve shirt was sufficient to keep warm during the day.
If I went out at night, I would add a light hoodie to the mix and I was comfortable. A few days it rained a little and it snowed for one whole day, but overall it was sunny and much more pleasant that I could have imagined Northern Europe ever would be in winter.
The other reason I loved visiting Amsterdam during this time of year was because of the lights! There are canals on every street of downtown Amsterdam and in the winter they are covered in lights.
This instantly took the early darkness of winter and made it magical. There was even a Light Festival while we were there, which lit up the city even more.
I will also give a shout out to the many skylights built into Amsterdam architecture. Those also made the darker winter always seem bright (pictures to come later in the post). And don’t even get me started on the seasonal treat of Oliebollen:
Overall the climate is a bit unpredictable and can go from slightly hailing to sunny to raining to sunny again in an hour flat, but overall it was way more enjoyable than any other fall/winter location I’ve experienced.
Walkability
Amsterdam was unsurprisingly very walkable (European sidewalks for the win π ) . I also enjoyed walking around the city even more than usual because there were lights around seemingly not only every street, but every bridge and canal, which were all over downtown.
I had a wonderful time walking through this city, but just a heads up that if you’re walking at night or running at any time, there are inclines and steps that aren’t always easy to see including steep steps down to some apartments. So while the walking is fantastic in Amsterdam, be alert if it’s dark or you’re going fast just like in any city π .
Similarly, be careful when opening your car doors because Amsterdam is the city of bikes and at times there isn’t a separate bike lane so the bike lane is the street. They’re not always easy to see, but bikes seem to own the streets in Amsterdam. Just to be sure, also check when you’re crossing the street in case you’re in their way π .
If those caveats didn’t scare you away, I still really enjoyed the walkability of Amsterdam. When approaching a pedestrian crossing, you press the black button and a yellow cross signal starts up shortly after. I don’t know if I got lucky for the month, but it seemed like the lights responded to the walk sign and changed shortly after – I was never waiting for long like in a lot of cities.
Transit
Getting around Amsterdam was very easy even outside of walking. When my Partner and I arrived, we took an Uber Green from the airport to the heart of downtown for β¬37.34 ($40.48 USD) on a Thursday afternoon.
Outside of ride shares, there are buses, adorable trams and ferries you can take around the city. We used the trams and ferries personally and I was blown away by both.
Tram
In the US, you usually have to find a ticket machine and figure out what you need to pay on it to get on a new bus or subway system, but not in Amsterdam. I was in awe!
As I mentioned in the post above, you can tap on and off with your credit card to ride a tram or bus. There’s no need to download an app or do anything fancy – you just use your regular card.
When I scanned my card, the scanner said “in” and when I tapped when I was about to leave the tram, it said “out” so I knew I’d paid the correct fare.
Ferry
When I lived in Seattle it had the largest ferry system in the US and the second largest in world. A lot of people use ferries to commute to work and living there gave me a love of ferries.
So when I learned that a lot of ferries around Amsterdam are free, I had to go on one π . Here’s a map of those Amsterdam ferries.
To hop on a ferry, my Partner and I arrived at Amsterdam Centraal, walked to the left a little to the train station entrance, and walked inside. I then saw a sign with a boat icon on it pointing left so I followed that to the end of the hall and then to the right.
We then emerged on the other side of the building and I wasn’t sure where to go next so I checked Google Maps to figure out where this specific ferry was supposed to leave from. It looked like a bit to the left so we walked that way and discovered that was correct because there was a sign with the ferry name and a countdown to the next ferry.
We arrived a little early so we were able to watch the ferry dock and then we waited for people to get off, which was fun because since the ferry is free, people just walk on and off – no need for any kind of payment or pausing.
On this ferry there was an inside section and an outside section. However, the outside section had no place to grab on to so heads up about that.
Soon after we finished boarding, the ferry started moving and 15 minutes later, we arrived on the other side of the river and just walked off of the ferry. Lovely.
The ferry was running early by 2 minutes on our outbound and inbound ferry, which made me smile. I’m most used to delays rather than extra time π .
Culture
There were two things about Amsterdam culture that I noted while there. One was that it seemed like some small shops were a bit loosey-goosey about open and close times.
I went to a cafe, a restaurant and a corner store during their open hours and they were both completely closed. It wasn’t a big deal since there are a million cafes and restaurants in the city, but it was something I haven’t noticed in a large city before.
The other thing I noticed was that at least my Amsterdam Airbnb did not have a top sheet, just a sheet on the bed and a duvet on top. These small differences in bed making habits have become fascinating to me after traveling so much.
Inclusivity
Compared to when I first visited Amsterdam 14 years ago, this visit I saw a lot more people who look like me π . I even saw some interracial and same-gender couples openly showing affection in public. I also saw a fair number of pride flags around the city.
This is all obviously anecdotal and subjective based on the “vibe” I got from living in a city for a month, but I always felt welcomed wherever I went and felt comfortable walking or running alone even before or after the sun set.
Food
Amsterdam understandably has a lot of options to buy and eat food, but I’m instead going to rave about my favorite grocery store there: Albert Heijn.
Albert Heijn
Let me tell you why I love this store. First, the Ready Meals, specifically the pastas are shockingly good. In particular, their Carbonara was one of the best things I ate during our entire Euro-trip. It was like magic and I still think about it. My Partner was also obsessed with the store brand Stroopwafels.
Something else I loved about this grocery store was that they have fresh squeezed orange juice machines and it was fucking DELICIOUS. It’s also fun to watch. The machine is partially clear so you can see it literally squeezing the oranges into your bottle.
This might be standard in all grocery stores in Amsterdam, but Albert Heijn also had a really cool bottle deposit machine. To use it, I selected the UK flag for English, selected what kind of bottle I had, inserted my empty bottle bottom first and let the machine take it away. The machine then gave me a receipt that I can scan at checkout to take money off my bill. Love it!
Now for some practical advice, this grocery store does require that you weigh your own fruit and vegetables and put a sticker on it before going to checkout like they do in Italy. Also a heads up that you have to count your own bakery items and select pictures of them at check out.
When at check out, you can change the language on the self-check out kiosk by clicking the flag symbol on the bottom left and changing it to the UK flag for English.
Also a heads up that after you pay, it asks if you want a long or short receipt. The long one is itemized and the short one is not, but you need to take one of the two because you have to scan your receipt to be able to leave the store.
Utilities
At least where we were downtown, trash was collected from the street twice a week in the morning. It’s literally put on the sidewalk, but the trash is collected so promptly that it doesn’t become huge piles like in NYC and is gone soon after it’s set down.
Another reason there are only small trash piles around is the amount that is recycled in this city. There are glass and paper recycling bins around the city that you have to find. I found this website that shows you exactly where they are so you can go on a fun scavenger hunt to recycle your items π .
Language
Whenever I go to a new country, I try to practice a bit of the local language so I can get around without being an ignorant American π . Before this trip I learned some simple things like:
Thank you: Bedankt
Sorry: Sorry πΒ
Excuse Me: Pardon
However, it turns out that I didn’t need any of those. People spoke English 99.9% of the time and the one time someone didn’t, I think I said “Sorry?” and they immediately switched to perfect English. Apparently 90-97% of people in The Netherlands speak English and I found that to be accurate. Every person I encountered spoke better English than me π .
The only time I had to whip out my Google Translate app was actually when grocery shopping. Interestingly there was no English on packages in Dutch grocery stores. I don’t expect it, but I did find this interesting coming directly from Switzerland and Italy, which had English on grocery store packages even outside tourist areas.
At the Amsterdam grocery stores I went to, everything was understandably in Dutch, so I used my Google Translate photo feature to open the app and have it translate the package for me. However, that wasn’t always needed because some Dutch words are hilariously similar, such asΒ tomatensausΒ for tomato sauce.
However, for most everything else, that app was clutch as was doing some food language research beforehand so I didn’t have to scan everything in the grocery store to make sure I was buying the correct items.
Money
Using money in Amsterdam was wildly easy. Everywhere I went (except for one place, which I’ll talk about later), had tap to pay. Using credit cards is so normalized that a lot of shops had signs saying they don’t take cash. So my Chase Sapphire PreferredΒ worked perfectly in every situation.
There was only one time in my month-long visit where that Visa didn’t work. I went to a hole in the wall Italian restaurant multiple times because it was so delicious and they only accepted AmEx, Cash or Dutch Debit Cards.
Luckily, the first time I went with a friend who lives in Amsterdam so they used their Dutch Debit Card and I Venmoed them. Easy. And the next times I went, I knew that I would need cash, so we made sure to take some out of an ATM with my Charles Schwab Debit Card, which reimburses all ATM fees.
Tipping in Amsterdam isn’t a thing. People are paid fairly (unlike in the US) so you can tip, but it’s not expected and the highest option I’ve seen at like a coffee shop was 10%. Most places don’t even have the option when paying with a card, but I did see it at 2 coffee shops. Most places like restaurants don’t even give you the option to tip.
Cost
I like to base estimates on solid facts and that’s why I began my retirement calculations by assuming I would continue spending the same amount that I did during my awesome HCOL life in Seattle, which cost $18,000 a year. I then added 11% on top of that amount just in case, to come to a round $20,000 for my first year retirement budget. So did Amsterdam break my budget?
Nope π . The above reflects my experience and I was surprised to see that living in Amsterdam overall felt cheaper than Seattle, but the numbers also back that up.
LodgingΒ
Cost: $1,387.52/month
Accommodations in Amsterdam are interesting. When I was browsing a year in advance, I noticed that there were very few Airbnb listings and at the time, only one that met my very strict criteria for a monthly Airbnb. So I booked it – almost a year in advance π .
Once I was there and talking to the locals, I realized why that might have been. Amsterdam (like most places in the world) are facing a housing crisis and they have enacted laws that are interestingly the opposite of the ones I saw in MontrΓ©al.
In MontrΓ©al, the Airbnbs I stayed in were only allowed to provide at least 30 day stays, so short stays weren’t allowed. In Amsterdam, most Airbnbs are ONLY allowed to provide 30 days of stays to people on Airbnb in one year. Letting people stay longer requires additional fees, which our Airbnb did include.
Food
Grocery Cost: $262.09/month
In case my rant about how much I love Albert Heijn was subtle, I ate some delicious and decadent things this month. That grocery store spoiled me with their delicious fresh OJ, pasta ready meals and stroopwafels. And it was worth every penny.
Restaurant Cost: $193.47/month
I greatly enjoyed the restaurants in Amsterdam because they are both delicious and wildly varied. I went from having traditional Dutch street frites to authentic Italian pizza to having lunch in a shipping container/library. It was awesome π .
Alcohol Cost: $83.12/month
The amount of local beers and wines available in Amsterdam was a surprise to me, but I enjoyed them. If you are interested in what beers I’m drinking around the world, I have an Untappd profile here.
Transit
Cost: $40.09/month
This amount covered my half of our Uber to and from the airport, my one tram ticket and obviously the free ferries around Amsterdam. I walked everywhere else, which is obviously also free π .
Entertainment
Cost: $0/month
Who needs an entertainment budget when walking around a city that looks like this π ?
Conclusion
And that was my experience living in Amsterdam for a month during the winter! This was a bit of an experiment since I do usually chase summer heat and sunshine. However, I found that with the right factors, such as canals with beautiful lights on every block, skylights and delicious food, I don’t at all mind getting cozy in a city during the winter.
If you’re interested in my other Slow Travel Reviews, they’re all here:
International
- Slow Travel Review: Phuket, Thailand β The Land Of Sea & Food
- Slow Travel Review: MontrΓ©al, Canada – The Land Of Poutine, Bagels & Acrobatics
- Slow Travel Review: MΓ©rida, MΓ©xico β The Land Of Color & Nature
- Slow Travel Review: Puerto Vallarta, MΓ©xico – The Land Of Beaches & Birds
- Slow Travel Review: Buenos Aires, Argentina – The Land Of Nature & Architecture
- Slow Travel Review: San JosΓ©, Costa Rica – The Land Of Pura Vida
USA
- Slow Travel Review: Portland, Maine, USA – The Land Of Deliciousness
- Slow Travel Review: Catskill, New York, USA β The Land Of Mountains
- Slow Travel Review: Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA β The Land Of Chili Peppers
- Slow Travel Review: Decatur, Georgia, USA β The Land Of Flowers & Food
- Slow Travel Review: Seattle, WA, USA – The Land Of Flowers, Sea And Mountains
- Slow Travel Review: Sacramento, CA, USA: The Land Of Flowers & Sunshine
- Slow Travel Review: Chicago, IL, USA: The Land Of Pizza & Waterways
- Slow Travel Review: Troy, NYΒ – The Land Of Small City Charm
Take the rain to and from the airport to Amsterdam Central. Super cheap and 15 minutes!
Thanks for the reco! I would then have to take a ride share from Centraal to our Airbnb with our luggage anyway so I’d prefer to skip the additional step π . I’m all for convenience > saving a few bucks these days.
Were you able to pay at Albert Heijn with your Chase card?
I remember having trouble with US credit cards last time we stayed in Amsterdam.
we loved our month long stay in 2021 and can’t wait to return next year!
Yep – I mention in the post that I had no trouble using my Chase card everywhere credit cards were accepted. Did they tell you why your US card didn’t work in 2021? I’m curious what might have changed. And nice – enjoy!
Got it. I think some Albert Heijn locations didn’t accept US credit cards so we had to go to other ones away from us which was a pain.
Hope all locations work seamlessly now but wanted to confirm!
Cool – I think I only went to two Albert Heijn locations downtown so I can’t confirm all locations accept US cards, but based on everywhere else in Amsterdam accepting them these days I would assume they would.
When I was a teenager, my family went to Amsterdam. My sisters and I roamed the streets by ourselves during the days, which was a great adventure. We loved it. Our one translation whoops: we bought what we thought was shampoo and conditioner, but the conditioner was really, really bubbly. It turns out we actually bought shampoo and bubble bath.
That sounds like a great time! And haha yeah I’ve done that when I was learning Spanish. Classic translation issue π .
I spent a long weekend in Amsterdam last year and I fell in love. Iβve never felt so at home as I did there. It was heaven to me. This brought it all back. Thank you! But wooo the receipt to get out. I messed that one up the first time.
Interestingly when I went there was a lot of diversity and many flags all around. I found it very welcoming (accept for one dude who was clearly having a bad day). I hope the inclusion and diversity continues.
Right? I feel completely at home there too and that’s a really rare feeling for me. And lol yeah I’ve been trapped in many a store across the world because I didn’t know I needed to scan my receipt. It happens to us all. And yeah I hope it continues as well.
Loved to read about one of my fave cities! Iβm sorry I wasnβt there to show you around- but looks like you hit a lot of the highlights (including AH ready meals lol)
Itβs so easy to travel there, and always more to see! I just went back and fell in love all over again <3
Haha no worries – next time! And so true – I feel like I saw a totally different part of the city than I did during my first visit and we didn’t even get outside the city besides that ferry ride. I’ve gotta go back π . I’m glad you still love it!
Having traveled to Glasgow and Edinburgh this summer I have a new found appreciation for the lights at pedestrian crossings in my home country. In Scotland I had to wait so long for a green light my smart watch even stopped tracking my walking progress.
In Edinburgh I could also pay with my Dutch debit card om the bus. So easy these days to travel on public transport.
Good to know! Thank you.
Oh wow lol – yeah that’s one way to appreciate some things about home π .
Amsterdam looks like a gorgeous city. And a great place to not own a car, because parking right next to those canals with no fence or railing must be nerve-racking!
I never thought of it as a winter destination, but those temperatures are warmer than I would have expected. That’s really good info to know for if I’m ever planning to go there (so many places, so little time…)
Agreed on all counts π . And yeah I was surprised with how much my Georgia blood loved it in the winter.
Iβm so happy you enjoyed Amsterdam and I was wondering how it is during that time of the year. I wouldβve thought it would have been much colder. I enjoyed Amsterdam so much when I visited and I canβt wait to go back.
Yeah it was surprisingly lovely – and definitely go back! I can’t wait to π .
As someone living in the Netherlands I want to say one thing about tipping… A tip is not expected, but you are allowed to tip, also when there is no “automatic” option to do so. In the old days when paying by cash, people in the Netherlands used to give some cash as tip to the waiter when they wanted to express their gratitude. Nowadays, in a sit-down restaurant when the bill comes, you can say: “I’d like to add xxx as the tip”, and they will manually add that to the total that you pay by credit or debit card. (You can also do quick math and say “oh, make the total 70 euros” – and then if the bill was say 66 euros they know the other 4 euros are the tip).
Good to know – thank you for the additional details. I gave a tip when paying cash in a “I don’t need change” kind of way, but didn’t know about that option for cards.
Sounds like an amazing time! Some other bonuses for me of traveling with cooler weather are the fewer crowds and less expensive lodging.
Also I finally visited Montreal this month after having read about your time there in the past. I see why you like it so much! I think there could be some loopholes with the Airbnbs there though because mine was only 3 nights.
That’s a very good point! There were definitely way less crowds than when I visited around Queens Day (back when it was called that) in the spring.
I’m so glad you enjoyed it! And great to know – I’m curious if something changed or if there are different rules for different kinds of rentals. I’ll look into it π . Thank you for sharing!
For sure! This Airbnb was for 7 people, so maybe the rules are different for the bigger ones.
Amazing you were able to find such a nice AirBnB at such a good price! I’ve searched a ton and nothing comes close to that price and quality of space. Were you in the city proper or outside of it?
Thanks! We were in the city proper. I booked almost a year in advance so I’m sure that helped.